Sunday, January 27, 2008

Crochet Square

Crochet SquareBegin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

This figure represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.

When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.

Friday, October 12, 2007

Purl Foundation Chain

Purl Foundation ChainCrochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the needle.

Double Foundation Chain

Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough.

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Plain Foundation Chain

The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.

Form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Stars in Crochet.

Stars in Crochet pattern
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.

This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.

Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre.

1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.

2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.

1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form a circle.

2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each [212] of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.

3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--

1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times more.

2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.

Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Sovereign Purse

Crochet Purse
Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.

The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required.

The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little [210] raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the upper side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Silk Bag

Silk Bag Crochet Pattern
Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings.

Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join [207] the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.

For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.

Small Crochet Basket


Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.

For the bottom:Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.

2nd round:Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long [200] into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round.

4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it.

5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.

For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.

2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.

3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over wire.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Free Learn to Crochet eBook

Here's a free learn to crochet eBook we've run across on the Web. It includes the following:

* Abbreviations Used in Crochet
* General Information
* Basic Crochet Stitches
* Fancy Crochet Stitches
* Changing Color in Crochet
* For The Left Handed
* Care of Your Crochet Articles


http://www.funcrochet.com/learntocrochetebook.html

Thursday, August 9, 2007

Lamp Mat

Lamp Mat Crochet Pattern
MATERIALS..—6 skeins of white netting silk, and 3 skeins each of four shades of cerise ditto, the darkest being almost brown, and the lightest a rich and brilliant cerise. A hank of rather large steel beads, a string of short square steel bugles, and 1 oz. of fluted ditto, 1/2 inch long. A skein of rather fine white cotton cord, and 54 rings. Tapered, indented crochet-hook, No. 22. Begin with the darkest cerise, and do not change until the directions require it.

1st round: With this silk work 8 s.c. on the end of the cord, and form into a round, after which 6 s.c. to secure it.

2nd (Cerise and white): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last, 1 white, 2 cerise in 1, x 6 times.

3rd: X 1 cerise worked in the same stitch as the last two, 3 white, 2 cerise in one, X 6 times.

4th: Like 3rd, with 5 white instead of 3.

5th: X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last two, 7 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

6th: X 1 cerise in the same as the last four, 11 white (the last 2 being over 2 cerise), 4 cerise in one, X 6 times.

7th: X 1 cerise on the next stitch, 13 white, 1 cerise on 1, 3 on the centre one of 5, X 6 times.

8th: Like 7th, with 15 white. Change to the next shade of cerise.

9th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 1 cerise, 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise on centre of 5, X 6 times.

10th: X 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 3 cerise (the second over 1 cerise), 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

11th: X 1 cerise on next, 6 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

12th: X 1 cerise in next, 6 white, 11 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise. 3 in 1, X 6 times.

Next shade of cerise.

13th: X 1 cerise in next, 5 white, 5 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 2 white, 5 cerise, 5 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

14th: X 1 cerise in next, 7 white, 3 cerise, * 1 white, 2 cerise, * twice, 1 white, 3 cerise, 7 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 15th: X 1 cerise in next, 11 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 11 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

16th (Lightest cerise): X 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last 3, 13 white, 2 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 2 cerise, 13 white, 4 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

17th: X 1 cerise in the next, 16 white, 3 cerise (over 1 w., 1 c., 1 w.), 16 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, X 6 times.

LAMP MAT.

18th: X 1 cerise on next, 18 white, 1 cerise, 18 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

19th: X 1 cerise in next, 39 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

20th: X 1 cerise in 1, 2 white, * 2 cerise, 3 white, * 7 times, 2 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

21st: X 1 cerise in next, * 3 white, 2 cerise, * 8 times (the white over white, the cerise over cerise), 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

22nd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 2 white over 2 cerise, 1 cerise, 1 white, * 8 times, 2 more white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

23rd: X 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 4 white, * 8 times, 1 cerise, 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, X 6 times.

24th: Entirely cerise, working 3 in 1 at all the 6 points.

25th: White and cerise alternately, a single stitch of each, with 3 in 1 at the points.

26th: All cerise, increasing, as before, at the corners.

This completes the centre of the mat. Now cover six of the rings with the darkest cerise, 12 with the lightest, 12 with the second lightest, and 24 with white. They are to be done in s.c. The darkest are sewed in the centre of each side of hexagon, with a white at each side, and two more (joined together) above it. The lightest cerise are placed at the points the two being joined together, and one to the mat. These form the extreme points, and the other twelve are placed to connect the lightest rings with the white. The short square bugles are threaded, with some of the beads, to form a cross in the centre of each of the white rings; the other rings have a cross of beads only. All the rings are sewed together, and to the mat.

The elegant fringe round the edge is formed of the long steel bugles, connected with each other at the outer edge by a chain of 4 steel beads. The needle is slipped down them to connect them with the rings, and a single bead is threaded at the base of each. The side rings have 6 bugles each, placed at equal distances; the corners have 8; and 1 is placed where every two rings are joined.

This mat would be very beautiful if worked in white and shades of green, with gold beads and bugles.